Chemicals that kill insects in Fairbanks

Local beekeeper, Fred Tuttle, has been speaking with Mosquito authority about protecting honeybees from the lethal chemicals used to kill mosquitos. Mosquito Authority is willing to keep an address map of beehives in our community and inform beekeepers of locations, dates and times chemicals are being used. Beekeepers can cover hives with a wet sheet to protect the bees from exposure.
If you want to be on the map, please call Mosquito Authority at 907-750-2588 to communicate with Darren and get your location on Darren's list.

TOP BAR HIVING DEMO TODAY - Botanical Gardens 2:00pm

Today at Botanical Gardens, UAF, Jennifer and I will be hiving one colony of Carniolans in a top bar hive. This is a great time to ask questions. Please wear a bee suit for this.
https://www.google.com/maps/search/botanical+gardes,+UAF/@64.8545275,-147.8616585,14z/data=!3m1!4b1?hl=en&authuser=1

First Complete Hive Checks

First complete hive checklist (5 - 7 days after initial hiving):

Do not remove frames in the middle of the brood box.

• Start on the side of the box opposite the feeder.
• Slowly remove insulation follower board being careful not to smash any bees.
• Slowly remove one frame at a time checking for eggs, larva, and perhaps even a little pupa.
• It is not vital that you see the queen, especially if you see evidence of a queen.
• After removing several frames you can start putting one frame back before removing another frame. I usually remove three frames and set them on a frame rest or lean them against the hive on the ground (portrait rather than landscape) so there is room to see.
• I make sure to put the brood nest back in the center of the frames so the babies can be kept warm by the cluster on cold days and nights. (The brood nest is frames with eggs, larva, and pupa)
• If you do not see evidence of a queen you may need to re-queen.
• Please call Dale Lupton or me if you need another queen - depending on the circumstances, queens are $30.00.          Dale 907-978-1455    Dawn 907-460-6050
• Keep topping off sugar water every 3-5 days.
• On warm days (50* or warmer) remove entrance reducer and replace it in the evening before the temperature drops below 50*.

ANY QUESTIONS? Post a comment below.

Do not let sugar water run out in cold temperatures!

Honeybees generate heat when they have enough carbohydrates. A minimum of 1:1 sugar water should be fed to the bees in an internal feeder. If they run out of sugar water for very long in cold temperatures, they may die.

Interior Alaska Beekeeper's Co-op Meeting has been changed to 4/22/2018 at 2:00pm

Hello Folks,
I am changing the Interior Alaska Beekeeper's Co-op meeting to Sunday, April 22, 2018 at 2:00pm because a dear friend of mine has passed away and his memorial service is April 21st.

Please bring your bee suit to this meeting as we will be hiving bees into one Langstroth hive and one top bar hive. Bring your beekeeping questions for an outdoor Q & A at the Botanical Gardens, UAF.
http://www.georgesonbotanicalgarden.org/

Top Feeders Don't Work for Spring Feeding in Alaska's Interior

Top feeders do not work for spring feeding in Alaska's Interior! Been there, done that and don't recommend it. Top feeders are not warm enough and the bees really struggle to get at the sugar water. Internal feeders are the way to go and my favorite comes from Mother Lode Products
https://www.motherlodeproducts.com/product/in-hive-feeders-with-cap-ladders-set-9-58-or-6-58-50-count/

Hiving Bees in Cold Weather

I try to hive honeybees in temperatures 50* or warmer. If temperatures are below 50* I tend to wait, feeding the bees with 1:1 sugar water using a spray bottle. My equipment is warm because I bring it into my house the day or two before hiving. This is very important for giving the bees a better chance at survival. I have insulation on the outside and inside of my hives and an internal sugar feeder in each hive.

Another beautiful summer of Beekeeping in Alaska! - Next Interior AK Bee Co-op Meeting

Hello Fellow Beekeepers, Another summer is beginning to awaken in the Interior of Alaska and the bees will arrive anytime between April 11th and the last day of April.

• If there is still snow on the ground a few days before the bees arrive, I shovel down to the dirt or grass to remove a patch of snow at least 10 feet wide by 10 feet long to ensure the bees have a place to complete cleansing flights without getting confused between the earth and the sky. The light reflecting off the snow and the sunlight in the sky can disorient honeybees. If bees fall or fly into snow they will surely die.
• A couple days before the bees arrive I will bring my equipment into the house to warm it up. 
• I have purchased sugar for spring feeding. 
• The day before or day of arrival I will thaw out pollen patties and mix sugar syrup (minimum 1:1 ratio) water to sugar. 
• My hives will be placed with the entrance facing southeast for the earliest morning sun.
• I am insulating the hives inside and out and starting out with one brood box. The smaller the house, the easier and cheaper it is to heat!

You are cordially invited to the next Interior Beekeepers Co-op Meeting at Botanical Gardens on April 21st, 2018 - 2:00pm for two live hiving demonstrations. Jennifer and I will be hiving one colony of Italians in a Langstroth Hive and one colony of  Carniolans in a top bar hive. All are welcome and please bring a bee suit to this event.