Colonies tend to desire swarming more in June than any other month. Completing hive checks every 10 days is essential! You'll know that a colony is serious about swarming when you see queen cups filled with a bed of royal jelly. If you see empty queen cups in the early stage (not completely drawn out) these are on standby in the case a colony loses a queen. When this happens, the workers create royal jelly and fill a ready made queen cup with the jelly. They steal an egg from one of the worker cells and drag this fertilized egg over to the queen cup, planting it in the middle of the royal jelly bed. The queen then emerges from her cell anywhere from 11-14 days later.
Queen Cups
Please complete hive checks every ten days!
It is not yet time to add honey supers, especially with all the ridiculously, unseasonably cold weather we've been experiencing! If colonies don't have pollen stores, you could give then a quarter pollen patty just to help them get caught back up on this. Without pollen, babies starve because they need beebread which is a mixture of pollen and nectar or honey or when these aren't available, pollen and sugar water will suffice.
Remember to follow the beekeepers calendar as a tentative guide for hive adjustments.
Unfortunately, it is getting more difficult to find replacement queens now. You can try to ship them in from this company: https://www.koehnen.com/contact
If you lose a queen there are three choices:
#1 - Order a new queen and when she arrives, hang her for a minimum of five days in the middle of the top brood box to prevent the bees from killing her. They need time to get used to a new queen's pheromones. I tape the cap onto the queen cage to make sure she does not escape the cage prematurely. On the fifth day after hanging the new queen, I take the cap off, and scoop about half of the sugar candy out of the cage tunnel.
#2 - Allow your colony to create a new queen. There must be eggs present for this to happen. If you remove all the queen cups and cells with royal jelly/queen larva before you determine you have lost a queen, then there's no chance for the colony to create a new queen. This is why we must make sure we have a queen or see evidence of a queen having laid eggs in the past couple days before removing all queen cells during hive checks. To allow a colony to create a new queen, we must make our best choice of available queen cells, removing all other queen cells and/or cups. This prevents more than one queen hatching out within the same time period, causing them to battle to the death. This can cause queens injuries and possible death.
#3 - Combine your queenless colony with a colony that has a queen. This is done by placing several sheets of paper over the top hive body box of the queenless hive. (I like to use the Fairbanks Daily News paper without ink printed on it). Make about 5 two-inch slices in the paper with your hive tool to give the bees an area to start tearing away and eating the paper. This method works great in most cases and this slow combining of the two colonies helps them to become acquainted gradually so there is less fighting.
I plan to wait until I see the brood nest in each of my colonies extend below the top box and down into the middle frames of the top brood box to swap the positions of the boxes. When I see the brood next spanning both brood boxes, I will put the bottom box on the top and the top on the bottom.
Whenever I see rainy days and temperatures lower than 40*, for more than a few days, I give each colony a small square of pollen so the queen doesn't stop laying. Remember, our main goal this time of year is to get the worker population as high as possible to prepare for the huge honeyflow when all the flora is at it's peak of the summer. This usually occurs between the last week of June and the first couple weeks of August. I suspect for Interior Alaska this season, everything will be a couple weeks later than usual.
I hope you're enjoying this beautiful adventure!
:) Dawn
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